From Haparanda, our plan was to visit Kukkola and see its famous Kukkolaforsen rapids, then drive further north where we would cross the Arctic Circle somewhere near Övertorneå, and from there continue back to the Piteå flying club where we stayed:
Kukkola is two villages with the same name, on each side of the mighty Torne River, Torneälven in Swedish. One part of the village is in Sweden, and another one – in Finland. On Swedish side it’s called Kukkolaforsen and the river is Torneälven and on Finnish side it’s Kukkolankoski and Torniojoki. The area, divided between two countries, has its own culture and its own language: Meänkieli. On Swedish side there is a hotel and restaurant.
During two last weeks on July, when the river is at is calmest, a dinner can be served on this half-bridge:
Would you dare? It would definitely be an experience!
Flemming and I had a selfie in front of the river. We were very impressed by its power:
The fast-flowing rapids around Kukkola and the fact that they are relatively shallow means they are perfect for an almost unique fishing method – catching whitefish by a handnet.
We saw one fisherman at work:
Netting whitefish this way is rather tiring. Handling a landing net with a six-metre handle in running water for several hours is hard work. That’s why the villagers used to divide themselves into teams, working in shifts as the whitefish came up the river. They also built artificial arms of wood, so-called pator, stretching into the river so the fishermen could easily reach with their handnets.
In the village, there was a clock tower – so that the fishing teams wouldn’t miss their shift:
This kind of fishing, using hand nets and pator, is actually unique. It comes from the Middle Ages, but nowadays it’s only used in the Amazon and in Swedish Lapland.
There were a number of open museums in the village that we visited, before moving on.
In Övertorneå, we had a stroll through the town:
Bell tower of the local church on the photo below. I couldn’t get a decent photo of the church itself. We learned that the original church was washed down by a flood, and this newer one was built in the 17th century higher up on the hill to protect it from any future disasters.
It was probably the most charming church I’ve seen in Sweden. Carved wooden details, lots of beautiful paintings, stylish chandeliers…
The church had many interesting items exhibited by its walls, with stories and tales:
An organ from 16th century and more paintings:
After the church, we walked around the main street again, and saw this modern sculpture – a tribute to the women of Torne Valley by Helena Byström, depicting a woman’s skirt:
Our tour continued, and we hoped to find a cafe somewhere on the road.
We haven’t seen even one gas station on the way. And suddenly, there was a sigh of a food & drink place. We turned there, and there was the most funny inn one could imagine. It was a combination of a restaurant with curiosity shop, where one could buy good home-made food, stuffed animals, old utensils, the rests of suing machines, old postcards, Chinese souvenirs, and much more.
Flemming with a bear:
They had stunning views from the rooms:
We had a break there, had a coffee, watched the squirrels to play with the dustbins, and continued to Piteå. There were lots of dramatic clouds on our way that we admired so much:
The weather in Lapland was beginning to stabilise again, and we hoped to fly to Kiruna next day.
